You could finish a supper of beans and ribs on a high note with this dessert, or bring it in as the finale of a fancy dinner party.
1 1/2 pounds (4 to 5) firm-ripe Comice, Anjou or Bartlett pears, peeled and cored 3 to 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (to taste) Shredded rind of half a lemon 1/2 cup of 1/4-inch chunks of candied pineapple 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup sugar, or to taste 2 cups water Garnish: 6 tablespoons crushed pistachio nuts or small rosemary sprigs
Working ahead: If working a day ahead, let the granita freeze solid. About 4 hours before serving, partially defrost, stir and then refreeze. Stir after 40 minutes and stir again after another 40 minutes. Stir a third time shortly before serving.
In a food processor, blend all the ingredients (using 3 tablespoons lemon juice and 1/4 cup sugar), except the garnishes. Run the machine a few seconds and taste the mix for tart-sweet contrast. It should be slightly exaggerated because cold will mute the flavors. Adjust the lemon juice and sugar accordingly. Continue processing until the pineapple chunks are reduced to small bits. You don’t want a smooth puree. Pour the pear mixture into an 8- to 10-cup freezer container and freeze.
After 2 hours, stir the granita with a fork, breaking up the frozen outer rim and blending it into the slushy center. Repeat this again after about an hour, and again for another hour. You want the granita to be shaggy crystals (not at all soupy) that you can scoop up for serving.
To serve, scoop the granita with 2 tablespoons or a small ice-cream scoop into tall glasses. Top with spoonfuls of the crushed pistachios. If using rosemary flowers, sprinkle a 1/2 teaspoon over each portion. Serves 8. Serve immediately.
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