Garlicky Pork Burger

Time: 30 minutes

1 1/2 to 2 pounds fatty pork shoulder, in chunks

Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat a gas grill. Or, on stove top, heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat for 3 or 4 minutes.

Put meat, salt, pepper, garlic and fennel in food processor, in batches if necessary, and pulse until coarsely ground: finer than chopped, but not much. Put it in a bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Taste, then add more seasoning if necessary. (If desired, cook a teaspoon of meat in a pan before tasting.) Handling meat as little as possible to avoid compressing it, shape it lightly into 4 or more burgers.

Fire is hot enough when you can barely stand to hold your hand 3 or 4 inches over rack for a few seconds. Grill burgers about 5 minutes a side, or until medium. (Timing on stove top is the same.)

Serve on buns, toast, or hard rolls, garnished as you like.

Yield: 4 servings.

Per serving (without bun): 435 calories; 28 g fat (10 g saturated fat; 58 percent calories from fat); 2 g carbohydrates; 156 mg cholesterol; 732 mg sodium; 42 g protein; 1 g fiber.