Simple Rib Roast

This version, from roast master Barbara Kafka, starts with a high cooking temperature but then uses a lower temperature to finish roasting the meat, then a moderately hot oven to crisp up the roast. From “Roasting: A Simple Art,” by Barbarba Kafka.

4 1/2 -pound short (without short ribs) standing rib roast (about 2 ribs) or 26-pound standing rib roast (about 7 ribs)

1 recipe small- or large-quantity Yorkshire pudding, optional

Remove roast from refrigerator and let come to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Place oven rack on second level from the bottom. Heat oven to 500 degrees.

Place small roast in a 14- by 12- by 2-inch roasting pan, bone side down. The large roast will need an 18- by 13- by 2-inch roasting pan. Snuggle most of the garlic, if using, under the fat and spread remainder over meat. Season well with salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes. With meat in oven, reduce heat to 325 degrees and roast another 12 minutes for the small roast. The large roast will need another 1 hour and 15 minutes. Increase heat to 450 degrees and roast 15 minutes more for both sizes. Meat temperature should read 135 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.

Remove roast from oven. Transfer to a serving platter. Pour or spoon off excess fat, reserving about 1/8 cup fat for the small roast and 1/4 cup fat for the large roast. Put pan over high heat and add wine. Deglaze pan well , scraping with wooden spoon. Let reduce by half. Pour liquid into a small sauceboat and reserve.

Small roast serves 6.

Per serving (with pudding): 617 calories; 30 g fat (12 g saturated fat; 44 percent calories from fat); 19 g carbohydrates; 417 mg cholesterol; 647 mg sodium; 60 g protein; 1 g fiber.