Deviled Chicken Drumsticks

From “Gourmet Weekday” (Conde Naste, May 2012, $20). For the crispiest coating, use panko — the Japanese breadcrumbs that look more like bone-dry shards of crunchy white bread — and mix with parmesan and some melted butter before you coat the chicken. If you have any hot smoked Spanish paprika, use it instead of the cayenne. Chicken can also be roasted a day ahead and chilled.

• 12 chicken drumsticks
• 1/2 cup Dijon mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 3/4 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
• 3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 3/4 teaspoon cayenne
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 450 degrees, with rack in upper third. Pat chicken dry, then toss with mustard until evenly coated.

Stir together panko, cheese, cayenne and salt and pepper. Drizzle with butter and toss well.

Dredge each drumstick in crumb mixture to coat, then arrange, without crowding, on a buttered large rimmed baking sheet.

Roast until chicken is browned and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Serve warm, cold or at room temperature. Serves 6.

Per serving (per 2 each): 378 calories; 22 g fat (9 g saturated fat; 52 percent calories from fat); 9 g carbohydrates; 119 mg cholesterol; 599 mg sodium; 35 g protein; 0.4 g fiber.