Santi Montedoro Moscato imported by Wildman

Santi Montedoro Moscato has surprising weight on the palate from the intense fruit. (Wildman & Sons)

Santi Montedoro Moscato 2010, $12: Have you explored today’s offerings of Moscato, both domestic and Italian? If not, you’re missing out. Yes, they are sweet, and the good ones, like this, are balanced, and they have the fruit and acidity to last forever after you open them, and play off spicy Asian dishes and even sweet shellfish and mild cheeses. This one is a perfume of melons, intense tangerine and peaches on the nose. On the palate, the fruit has good weight, and there is a honeyed sweetness and charming touch of bitterness in the midpalate. Alcohol is a gentle 10.5 percent. It’s from Italy’s Trentino region in the foothills of the Dolomites mountains.