St. Julian’s Braganini Reserve Pinot Gris 2011,$15, is a knockout. It’s a juicy, delicate, elegant dry white, redolent of mango, apricot, pineapple and tangerine with a tart lime twist threaded through the flavors. It has soft, viscous texture in the mouth from oak fermentation. All of the fruit was fermented in neutral oak, which tells me the fruit was pretty amazing to start with. Nice body; alcohol is a mannerly 12 percent. It’s grown at Herman Farms, by Joe and Sue Herman, in Coloma. This is a wine that testifies to the world-class quality coming from areas east of the Rockies in the best vintages — and from the best growers. It has silvered in four wine competitions this year — Pacific Rim International and Riverside International, Tasters Guild and Great Lakes Great Wine.