With his broad reach, resources and flair, Burgundian vintner Jean-Charles Boisset probably did not surprise anybody when he produced a sparkling wine in the Champagne district of France to embellish the portfolio of his Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma County, California. Boisset was born in Burgundy, his parents founded a winery there in 1961 and now the Boisset Family Estates owns historic properties that stretch from Burgundy to the South of France to California’s Napa Valley and Sonoma. Boisset, who married Gina Gallo of the E.&J. Gallo family, is well-steeped in the history of Buena Vista, which was founded in 1857, and produced sparkling wine using the French method (a second fermentation in the bottle) in 1861. La Victoire Champagne honors that early history while adding to Boisset’s many changes and innovations to reinvent Buena Vista.
La Victoire Champagne Brut NV, $50: A classic blend of 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Chardonnay, from Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, this exciting bubbly from France joins other wines in Buena Vista’s Heritage Collection. It’s elegant and complex with aromas of grapefruit, brioche notes and a kiss of honey followed on the palate by flavors of white stone fruit, peach and pear. It’s braced with firm acidity. Though by French wine laws, a nonvintage Champagne must be aged a minimum of 15 months, this one is aged more than three years. If you visit the tasting room, you will find a more costly version of this wine, which has more Grand Cru fruit.
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